Since my departure from Nigeria, the development of Nigeria’s modelling industry has been impressive. Gone are the days when girls who graced the cover of Hints or the back page of Ikebe Super were looked down upon by society. There were very few reputable model agents such as Yemi Fawaz, and the money earned was nothing to write home about – actress Omotola Jalade-Ekeinde who was originally a model stated in an interview that despite featuring in several campaigns for numerous brands including Vita Malt, she was still unable to afford a car, yet the agencies still believed they were doing their girls a favour. Today, more Nigerian girls are willing to participate in this rising career, but very few possess the knowledge required to succeed in this rather competitive field.
When I tried to break into modelling in Nigeria, I had no-one to turn to for advice, most of my relatives did not approve, and I did not bother to do any research. As a result, I jumped at the first opportunity available without asking questions or confiding in anyone, and duly paid a ridiculous sum of money to the agency for “administration purposes”, but failed to land a job. In fact, two months after my last visit, I returned to the office in Ikeja to make enquiries, only to discover that the manager had fled, bag and baggage, and taking my money with them. Of course, I was gutted, but I could only blame myself – I should have been more careful. The ‘agency’ was actually a rented room with bad-quality pictures of odd-looking people on the wall, and the staff claimed to have a branch office in South Africa which was false. The business was situated in the fashion-conscious borough of Ikeja which was fairly known for hosting fashion shows and its boutiques, yet no-one there ever approached them for a booking. I was one of the lucky ones – a fellow Naija-Brit had submitted her passport and birth certificate in order to obtain a visa for a Hugo Boss show aboard. Did she actually get booked, or indeed see her documents again? Your guess is as good as mine.
To succeed in the industry, one must not rely on looks alone. Here are some guidelines for any Nigerian girl who wishes to become a model.
Look After Yourself To be a model, it helps to look like one. However, it’s a myth that all models must be beauty pageant material as not all beautiful girls photograph well. When Oluchi won Face of Africa in 1997, everyone wondered how that was possible as she was not particularly considered a stunner, yet she was raw, fresh, and edgy, and after she endured a rough couple of years at the beginning of her career, Oluchi rose to become one of Africa’s best known models. You don’t have to be reed-thin and tall as a quirky look is sometimes required to sell a product – what really matters is your confidence and personality. However, looking like a model does not necessarily mean spending loads of money to create an image; in fact, if you are not financially stable, you shouldn’t follow fashion. Dress to suit your body shape. Choose a hairstyle which flatters your facial features – if you have sharp cheekbones, your may find that short hair may work for you, and with no cheekbones at all, the opposite.
Sometimes, the agent or client may ask you to make changes to your appearance if they feel it would improve your chances of obtaining booking, so if you object to having all your hair shaved off, modelling may not be for you. Remember, models eat to live, not live to eat, so if you are fond of Mr. Biggs orTantalizers, take it down a notch as you will have to retain your figure. I know we’ve heard it a hundred times, but you really are what you eat, so improve the quality of you diet (more fruit and vegetables…especially vegetables, and plenty of water which will flush out toxins), and everything else with take care of itself.
Keep Fit This doesn’t always mean visiting the gym to get reed-thin. Believe it or not, even plus-size models like Toccara Jones exercise regularly, but only to keep fit…those curves keep them in work after all. Any experienced model will confirm that posing for the camera entails more than just looking pretty. You may be asked to hold an uncomfortable position during a shoot, run from place to place during a go-see, or work in the baking sun, all of which could be grueling… and don’t get me started on fashion shows. This is why a model requires strength and energy, and in addition to a proper diet, exercise is essential.
Choose Your Portfolio Photos Most models only build their portfolios when they have started working in print, and as they could be expensive for first-timers, most Nigerian agencies may accept studio shots. These are essential as they display your versatility, and go a long way in promoting your skill in front of the camera. Most agencies require pictures which show you in casual wear, swimsuit – not necessarily a bikini as long as it shows your true figure – and formal attire. Since it’s Nigeria, you may wish to include traditional wear, taking care that you choose an outfit that enhances your figure as opposed to swamping it. As for casual, be sure to choose neutral colours in simple styles – the most ideal would be a pair of skinny/straight cut jeans or denim shorts teamed with a white tank top or V-neck shirt which should also be figure-hugging without being tight. Remember what Cindy Crawford and Beyoncé both wore in the infamous Diet Coke commercial and the “Crazy in Love” video respectively? The designers have to see YOU, not the colours, so keep it simple. If you are really thin a lá Kate Moss, try a black top instead so your lower half looks bigger. Jewellery should be kept to a bare minimum as anything excessive could be distracting. Fashion photographer Nigel Barker once stated that a common mistake most models make when creating their portfolio is choosing outfits which are currently in fashion, and I couldn’t agree more. An acquaintance of mine who was competing in a photo modelling contest submitted a picture of herself dressed in a floral blouse and spiky gladiator sandals, both of which were a no-no as they were sure to make the photos look dated when the trend passed. Stick to the “Less is More” rule, and you can use the photos again and again. Go for classic styles, bearing in mind that fashion isn’t always in style, but style is always in fashion.
Make sure your hair is arranged properly, and your nails are done, and I would advice all beginners to steer clear of tacky nail patterns. Clear nail varnish is sufficient, and it does make a difference. The best shoes to wear are a simple pair of stilettos, as they add elegance and may improve posture. In shots where you have to sit or lie down, always point your toes as they’ll make your legs look longer. And use natural shades when it comes to make-up, as the agents have to see what they could be working with. Even then, scars are not pretty, so use camouflage make-up to cover them if they are obvious; even your usual foundation would do. Be sure to try a variety of looks – serious face, smiley face, mean girl, etc. Ask the photographer if he can provide a number of the photos in black-and-white, as this is an industry favourite. When selecting pictures, you don’t need to fill a whole album. Even five or six shots are enough, as long as they are the strongest which display variety. Beware of agencies that force you to use a specific photographer because it could be a scam, and you could end up paying for sub par pictures.
Practice Your Poses It takes time, but a good model knows how to move – and pose – in front of the camera. An experienced photographer would guide you during the shoot, but be sure to remind him that the pictures are for fashion purposes. You could also buy European editions of high-fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, or Cosmopolitan and study the poses (European because the models are the best). If possible, on the day of the shoot take the magazines with you to the studio and copy the ones you feel comfortable with, remembering that certain positions can flatter you figure while others make you look bigger. For example, always point your toes when sitting or lying down as this will make your legs appear slimmer. Posing should involve not only the body but the face as well, making use of the eyes, cheeks, and mouth, and taking care not to produce an exaggerated effect.
Find a Reputable Agency If you decide not to go down the model contest route i.e Africa's Next Top Model, agencies are the perfect option. In recent years several reputable ones such as Beth Modelling Agency, Y-Ray, JC Modelling Agency, and Isis Models have emerged, and their business is constantly mentioned in fashion magazines and blogs. Beware of so-called agents who consistently advertise in newspapers, particularly in the classified section – if a model agency is reputable, they may not have to promote themselves consistently as most have connections within the fashion industry. If you are invited to their offices, ask questions, and if they hesitate, act evasive, or give the same answer to different questions, something is wrong, and if they have pictures of the models displayed on their walls, note the quality – if they look unprofessional or heavily photo-shopped, beware. And make sure they only offer the jobs you have in mind for before signing that contract, lest the high-fashion agent turns out to be a pornographer. Speaking of contracts, ask if you can show a copy to a lawyer before signing – even if you lack legal representation, just ask. If they show offence, leave. A genuine business is never scared of proving their authenticity. It also helps to ask models already signed with the agents to confirm that they are reputable.
Beware of Scammers No reputable agency would charge you to join them, although you may have to pay a small fee for test shots. If they have faith in you, they will be willing to invest in you first, and the only time they earn money is when you eventually find work, which is when they take a commission. You may have been told that a lucrative opportunity could disappear if you don’t pay immediately, as I was during my time. It’s a well-known fact that scammers entice model novices by making huge promises before disappearing with large sums, leaving their victims in tears. While portfolios are vital, it’s a myth that all models must have a portfolio before they are given work – Tyra Banks was once booked after a fashion photographer viewed her passport photo on a long flight. It also has to be noted that most models only build up a portfolio as they are offered work. A friend of mine who models in Ireland once told me that in the early days of her career she did jobs for free in order to obtain professional shots from the photographer, and after she had gathered enough pictures with some experience under her belt, clients began to take her more seriously, which was when she began to receive paid work. Here in the UK I once paid a huge amount for what I was told would be an outstanding portfolio, and ended up with trashy pictures on a CD-rom. I had a a scar on my leg which had been cause by a hot water bottle, and when I asked for camouflage to cover it, the photographer said that it would be airbrushed. However, upon receiving the CD-rom and noticing that my scar was still intact, I was curtly told to "fix it on a computer at home". The fact that they weren't even printed at the studio showed me just how greedy they were. Show them whatever studio shots you have taken as mentioned earlier, and it should be sufficient.
Do Your Research There’s a reason models are forever flicking through the glossy pages of Elle constantly; it keeps them abreast with what is current in the industry, which can be used to their advantage. As a beginner, you could use this knowledge to know who is genuine. The fake model agency I visited boasted that they had discovered Oluchi, which was absolute rubbish. Everyone knows that she was persuaded by a fashion designer aunt to compete in Face of Africa. They also claimed that an upcoming job they thought I’d be right for a Hugo Boss show in South Africa. When did Hugo Boss used dark-skinned black females at the time? If only I’d known then what I know now…
Be Smart Gone are the days when models had to be dumb and stupid. For your own protection, it pays to have a brain. Do not meet up with any agent after office hours, and beware of those male models who touch women in intimate places during photo shoots but lie about their sexuality (“Don’t worry, I’m gay!”). If you feel uncomfortable with what occurs within the business, you have a right to question it. Remember Benjamine Bowers, the Abercrombie & Fitch model who sued the company for $1,000,000 after he was asked to masturbate in front of the camera in order to appear relaxed? (Hadn’t he heard of yoga?) No-one held a gun to his head, he should have known better. Always refer to the contract, and make sure you are not being cheated. And if you want to see your career go down the drain before it even starts, always say yes when offered drugs.
Be Professional Always be punctual, always be polite, and always work to the best of your ability, even if your tired. If not, no-one will ever work with you again. The only reason Naomi Campbell continues to land bookings, despite her diva-like attitude, is because no-one does the job like her, or she would have been finished years ago.
Make Sure Your Family is Aware Granted, your folks may not approve of modelling (Eucheria Annunobi and Kate Henshaw have both confirmed that their fathers were furious about what their daughters were doing), but it helps if they are aware. Always give details of the location when preparing for a job, and if you are under 18, make sure an adult acts as your chaperone. Believe me, there are so many sick perverts out there who pray on innocent girls.
Remember, these are mere guidelines – the rest is all up to you. Good luck!
